“Walter Munk has been a world treasure for ocean science and geophysics”
Margaret Leinen, Scripps Inst. of Oceanography Director
Oceanographer Walter Munk passed away in his La Jolla home Feb 8th, 2019 at the age of 101. The Scripps Institution of Oceanography scientist led groundbreaking research in many areas of ocean science and led a truly amazing life. This post will touch briefly on his contributions and impact to the surfing community.
“He was revered in equal measure by surfers and navy admirals for his oracular ability to predict when far-off waves would break on beaches.”
Josh Horowitz, author of War of the Whales
Munk can be thought of as the grandfather of surf forecasting. The models that our surf prediction apps and swell trackers are based on had their origins in Munk’s ocean wave research.
As a young man he contributed to World War II efforts by using his wave predictions to advise on the most suitable days for amphibious landing craft for the invasion of Normandy.
Additionally, in what has been touted as ‘the most astonishing wave-tracking experiment ever,‘ Munk and colleagues set out to study the origins of long Pacific swells.
The educational and historical movie, Waves Across the Pacific, documents the effort: parts 1, 2, and 3 can be found on YouTube. By stationing researchers at various islands across the Pacific to measure swells, they were able to demonstrate that waves crashing on your local beach could have been generated in storms halfway across the globe. So next time you check Surfline or MagicSeaWeed to plan your next surf session, say a little thanks to ocean titan Walter Munk.
Additional write-ups on Munk’s remarkable life work and impact on those around him:
- Tributes to Walter Munk webpage
- Obituary Notice: Walter Munk, World-Renowned Oceanographer, Renowned Scientist (Scripps Inst. of Oceanography Obituary)
- Walter Munk, “Einstein of the Oceans” Dies (The Scientist)
- Surf Forecasting is Part of Walter Munk’s Legacy (KPBS)